That’s for an XP Repair installation, but the procedure is the same except you need to delete and make at least one partition, and you will not have the second Repair choice, and that’s for XP Pro but what you see in XP Home’s Setup is nearly identical. If CD drive or similar is listed before Hard drive or SCSI, if a CD or DVD drive has a disk in in while booting, – if the disk is NOT bootable, the bios tries to boot from the next thing in the boot order list – if the disk IS detected as bootable, you will see “Press any key to boot from CD” or similar on the screen – the message usually stays on the screen for 5 seconds waiting for you to respond – if you press the stated key while that message is on the screen, the bios will then attempt to boot from the disk – if you do not press a key, the boot sequence will continue about 5 seconds after that message first appearing, and the bios tries to boot from the next thing in the boot order list. The problem with that is if you ever need to re-load Windows or the original brand name software installation from scratch, you lose everything on the partition Windows was installed on, and when you have only one visible partition on the hard drive, that’s everything on the drive – unless you copy the data you don’t want to lose to elsewhere BEFORE you install Windows from scratch most people don’t bother, and lose all their data. XP just barely works as it was intended to with mb of ram. The Windows licence allows you to make one copy of your Windows disk for backup purposes, in case the original disk is damaged, – and – installations of and XP that came on brand name computers sometimes did not come with a Windows re-installation CD, and in that case you’re allowed to make one copy of someone else’s CD of the same version, in the case of XP, Home or Pro, whichever is installed on the hard drive, to load Windows with, as long as you have and use the original Product Key, which is supposed to be on the official Microsoft label on the brand name case.
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Only once I typed in the number 63 next to “Sector” below, did the number MB appear by itself.
In trying to understand the booting process and the boot loader, I was wondering, if one got the following BIOS messages: I never imagined that my thread would have so many posts and run for so many weeks!
I don’t know if anyone else is using the Product Key. Thankfully 98SE works well with mb of ram, audlo probably doesn’t benefit from more than mb.
I found the following at http: There’s a tiny chance there may be a problem with the data cable that could cause the led to not come on – you could try disconnecting the data cable to it, but I doubt the situation will change.
XP re-installation CDs that come with brand name computers usually have SP2 or SP3 printed on them if they have those updates and they may have SP1 printed on them if they include those. So I disconnected my working computer’s monitor and connected it to this thrown-away MS computer to see if the display card still have some functionality left.
Did you make a bootable floppy disk using the downloaded file from WD? Old versions of the diagnostics may not have been able to test drives larger than 8.
NOTE that the diagnostics can only detect that the drive is presently using the size and parameters the bios is presently detecting you could try setting the drive detection in the bios to Auto detection, or Manual detection – LBA – and type in the parameters on the labelbut you MAY be able to change the mode the drive is in with a feature available in the diagnostics, which will change the size and parameters the bios detects.
I’m learning a lot now. Keep in mind that you should always remove the AC power cord to the computer, or switch off the connection of the AC power source to the computer otherwise, whenever you are going to be unplugging or plugging in anything that connects to the mboard or the power supply inside the computer case. Older bioses may not auto detect the drive, and the bios settings may show the floppy drive despite the fact the computer isn’t actually detecting it.
Several times I tried to make a bootable floppy with Western Digital, but no luck, there was just no way I could run the Dlgdiag. I cleaned the heads. C is the Express or whatever default choice, but you can choose a Custom installation or similar and choose to install it on the drive letter of another partition on the same computer.
If the cable is ripped at either edge, it’s often right at a connector where it’s supposed to connect to the contact in the connector where it’s pressed into the cable, where it’s hard to see, especially if there is a cable clamp piece over the cable at the connector the end connectors usually have that – the middle connector may not.
I learned from Othehill 9 that if the model number has a G in the suffix, then it mss an integrated graphics card – my motherboard has it.
MSI Ms-6714 Ver 5 Socket 478 Motherboard Backplate Included
For and XP, 80gb, or smaller, may be fine, minimum, say, 20gb, if you’re not greedy about what you download to or have on your computer.
The type of floppy drive is set to 1. It encouraged me to persist, where otherwise I may have been discouraged to consider that I was wasting my time trying to fix old equipment. Thanks for the info on how to tell if I have integrated graphics My motherboard is not the exact model as in the picture from http: Remember, you are trying to get by cheap.
Drivers for MSI 845GVM-L MS-6714 motherboard (Socket 478)
What usually happens is the cable is ripped at either edge and the wires there are either damaged or severed, often right at a connector uadio under it’s cable clamp there, where it’s hard to see – if a wire is severed but it’s ends are touching, the connection is intermittent, rather than being reliable.
Well, sounds like you are on the right track.
The same basic VGA video is what you get when you install Windows from the CD on thefor the onboard video when the video card has not been plugged inand for the video card when it has been plugged in plug it in when the AC power to the case has been removedunless Windows has the specific video drivers built in, which I doubt.
You need to remove the jumper completely assuming that is the only drive on the cable. Old MSI mboards like your model are more likely to have this problem According to vef link you provided above you do have integrated graphics.
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I also bought a good second hand screen for my for next to nothing. The final status code is Then I put it back, turned power on, and no beep s. The problem was that I used the wrong version of diagnostic utility: Is this hard drive compatible with the MS?